Carolina on my mind....

For the next week or so, we’ll be heading right down the line between Tennessee and North Carolina. Today, we spent a frigid, snowy day hiking over Bald Mountain, from Sams Gap to Spivey Gap. We’ve been in Erwin, TN for the last few days, visiting with my parents and getting in a couple of days of slackpacking. A very good thing, since yesterday was cold and rainy and today was worse. It’s always good to be able to come back, take a hot shower, and dry out after a day like this.

Before we reached Erwin, we had some spectacular weather—perfect, sunny fall days. Earlier in the week, we stayed at the Mountain Harbor hostel in Roan Mountain. Mary, Terry, and Lula take amazing care of the hikers passing through, especially with their incredible breakfast. We also got to hang out with some great section hikers and reconnect with Beanpole, another flip-flopper we originally met in NJ. And this last section had my favorite hike so far, up around Carver’s Gap, crossing some of the beautiful balds.

The Cat Lady. At Mountain Harbor in Roan Mountain.

Pancho and Beanpole on Jane Bald.

Heading across the bald. NC/TN.

Nachita on Jane Bald.

Rocky Top, you'll always be...

the singlemost irritating song on the planet. Especially when performed at karaoke, at Quincey’s Pizza, by a group of senior hikers. Many of whom also apparently clog. A very special experience. One of many out on the trail.

Fortunately, we slackpacked today, so we could come back to town and take a hot shower after 15 miles in the snow, our first snowfall on the trail. Though it’s always great to hit a new state, Tennessee didn’t exactly welcome us with open arms. With high, swirling winds, freezing temps, and what the meteorologists call a “wintry mix,” yes. What the hell does that mean anyway? Isn’t it just the weather guys saying we have NO IDEA what will happen, but it’s going to be cold and there will be some form of precipitation. Well, we experienced all forms of precip today, in all states.

Unfortunately, at this point, we need to head back into the woods.  It has become clear that inertia is going to become a serious problem on our south bound leg.  Once in town, we want to stay in town.  Perhaps it is the shorter days, or the turning leaves, but we are finding it more difficult to get off our asses and head back into the woods.  As a result, despite the fact that the weather is not the best and not likely to get better for a couple more days, we're off tomorrow!

500 miles to go....

Less than 500 miles from home! We arrived in Damascus, VA, yesterday. One of the best known towns on the trail, famous for the big hiking festival held here every May, Damascus is a mecca for fishing, hiking, and biking. In addition to the AT, the Virginia Creeper trail, a rail-trail, passes through town. It’s amazing to see a town this (very small) size with 6 or 7 bike shop/tour companies. If only there were more than one bar….

We’re definitely starting to experience some wintry weather. We’ve had some very cold and windy nights out on the trail, fortunately tempered by some glorious, sunny fall days. The colors have been beautiful, though now most of the leaves are off the trees and on the trail. And leaves are a pain in the ass. Slick as glass when wet. Covering rocks and roots and all manner of ankle-turning obstacles when dry. And LOUD. Crunching through the leaves is making me a bit nutty—it’s hard to even hear yourself think. I do enjoy seeing the change of seasons on the trail, though. One of the advantages of flip-flopping and splitting up the hike.

Vista outside Pearisburg, VA.

After leaving Pearisburg, we went to Woods Hole, one of the best hostels on the AT, run by Michael (who gave me a fantastic massage!) and Neville. A beautiful, serene location, delicious meals, and great company(including the puppies and kitties) made for a terrific evening. We had another relaxing stay in Marion, VA, a surprisingly neat little town. We headed into town to escape the pounding rain and wait for some clear weather. As usual, we went straight to Mickey D’s, for Quarter Pounders and Wifi, where we came across the General Francis Marion Hotel, an historic inn in downtown Marion. A well-restored and lovely hotel, with a hopping little bar, in a very active main street area. Even considering the source of all evil (I’m looking at you, Walmart) is in town. Marion also has a restored theatre (didn’t get to go in) that is one of only 3 remaining Mayan revival theatres in the country.

Woods Hole hostel, VA.

Pancho and friend at Woods Hole.

Pancho setting up camp at Old Orchard (VA),
where we spent a crazy windy night, pondering the
wind rating of our tent.

Mt. Rogers high country (VA).

Wild ponies along the trail, Mt.Rogers high country (VA).

Nachita and friend. Much better than encountering a
 bear parked in the middle of the trail.

We rolled into Damascus just before the temperature dropped and the rain started. Of course, the forecast now predicts snow showers on Friday. Yikes! There may be a second zero in Damascus. I’m more than willing to suck it up and hike through rain, snow, etc., if I’m already out on the trail. But heading out of town into crappy weather? That’s a totally different ballgame. For the moment, we’re warm, dry, and comfy. We’ll see how long it lasts!

On the trail again...sort of...

Heading out, Take 2. And dressed for safety.
"I'm not a turkey--please don't shoot me!"

Once again, we’re availing ourselves of the free WiFi at Mickey D’s—this time in Pearisburg, VA. It’s been a bit of a slow start, since we headed out almost 2 weeks ago. The 2½ weeks of downtime definitely took a toll. It really is amazing how much fitness you lose in such a short time.

When we reached our starting point at Thunder Ridge, it was eerily similar to our first day back in May: zero visibility, zero sun, and heavy mist. And much like that first day, we didn’t go all that far. It definitely took some time to get the legs moving again. After three slow, painful days, we decided it was time to go to town and busted out an 18-mile day into Daleville. We took a day off, then slackpacked 19 miles, to help get our groove back. A very cold 19 miles, with seriously high winds. Unfortunately, our plan to avoid the incoming cold front by slacking another day was thwarted by the Hokies. Apparently, Daleville fills up on VA Tech home games, so we had to head back into the woods. The Hokies could have at least won, since we had to freeze our asses off.

Under The Guillotine. Yikes!

Admittedly, I was NOT prepared for the unexpected cold front, having sent most of my warm gear on to Pearisburg. So we found ourselves back in Daleville, making a trip to Gander Mountain to score some more winter gear, and taking another zero to avoid the cold rainy weather. There was actually snow and sleet in Pearisburg. It’s only the beginning of October! It’s way too early for this! Of course, now, it’s back up around 70. Oy.

McAfee Knob

Tomorrow we leave Pearisburg, heading to the hostel at Woods Hole, supposedly one of the best places to stay on the entire trail. And I’ll be getting a desperately needed massage there. Yay! I hate to cheat on Selina, but it has to be done.